Monte D'Oro's Changes Owners, Continues Tradition By ABIGAIL GOLDMAN
"I had him working with me to learn how to do things the way I was doing them," said Monte D'Oro's former owner, Carmine Rubbo. "My way, in other words. He was in the kitchen with me from the time I was open until I closed at night. He picked up quite a bit."
And with the restaurant came the regulars, like Joseph Palladino, a Monte D'Oro's devotee of 30 years. "I come for the food and the intimate setting," said Palladino, who eats at the restaurant once a week. "The food is just as good as it was before." "Only now we get little extras," said Palladino's wife, Elizabeth. "We get homemade chips and salsa at the beginning of every meal." Leon has lived in North Fordham for 18 years and employs his two daughters, Alexandra and Dianey along with son Erick at the restaurant. In keeping with the traditional Italian menu, eggplant parmigiana, chicken Milanese and veal cutlet sandwiches are best-selling items. Leon, however, has added an entire set of Mexican choices on the back of the established Monte D'Oro's menu, and families can be observed ordering enchiladas and fettuccini alfredo in one sitting.
Some patrons think the change in ownership has scared a few regulars off, needlessly. "The only difference you're going to see now is that [Leon] has it a little more built up. Nothing else has changed," said Bussell, who added, "When [the regulars] don't come back, it's a tragedy." Margie Rosado has eaten at Monte D'Oro's for 28 years. "When the owners changed, I asked if he would still have the same sauce," she said. "He does." In the meantime, Leon is working 12-hour days and developing his own fan base. Madeline Colon and Felix Maldonado have been eating at Monte D'Oro's weekly for the past four months. "This is the best Italian restaurant I've ever been to," said Colon. "It's awesome." Leon has worked to diversify the menu as well, adding several Mexican dishes. "They give us so much food," said Maldonado. "We eat half of what we order and take the other half home." On more than one occasion, the couple has left the restaurant "too stuffed to move" -- a likely sign Leon is living up to his patrons' ravenous expectations. Ed. note: Monte D'Oro's is located at 211 E. 198th St., between the Grand Concourse and Valentine Avenue. Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Phone: (718) 584-3455.
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Goldman
Monte D'Oro's Restaurant has been a North Fordham institution for 47 years, so when
ownership changed hands almost seven months ago, steadfast regulars might have been a
little nervous. Lucky for them, new owner Aurelio Leon doesn't mess with perfection.
Rubbo, who ran Monte D'Oro's with his wife, Ada, had been in the restaurant business
for 54 years. "At 72 years old I wanted to retire," he said. For Leon, it was a golden
opportunity. "I was working in the restaurant and a gentleman came and asked me if he
could learn how to make pizza," said Rubbo. "He wanted to learn the business a little bit.
Sixth months later [Leon] offered to buy the restaurant."
Carrying on the Rubbo culinary legacy is no small challenge, and Leon is determined to
win over what local Steven Bussell calls Monte D'Oro's "heavy repeat" customers -- "the
lawyers, doctors, judges, borough presidents and council members." Bussell knows;
he's
also a 23-year heavy repeat customer. "I'm loyal to them. It's like going to
someone's
kitchen. A lot of people have been going there for years. The police would always eat
there."
